All posts in Wall coverings

Lincrsuta dado panels in Cheshire

Recently I completed a Lincrusta dado panels installation project in Cheshire, with my good friend and Dulux Select Grand winner Mark Rigby. “Thanks for the help Mark.  We make a good team on the installation of Lincrusta”.

The owner of the property has a distinct passion for all things “Period”

Improving the the property further by re installing the period features that have been ripped out over the 150 years the property has existed.

Lincrusta Installation

Along with installing the Lincrusta, the customer had beautiful coving re instated and a lovely dado rail along with original cast radiators.

The installation of the wall covering went very well with the aid of straight edges and Olfa knives with black blades.  The straight edges being used to trim off the selvedge.  Basiclly the edges of the wall covering has a centimerter strip which help protect the wall covering in transit.



When installing the lincrsuta I like to get hold of the freshest paper I can.

Lincrusta dado panel Wilmslow

The reason for this is that it aids in the installation.  Lincrsuta is made of putty on the front and just like your window glazing beads in time putty turns a rock hard solid. This is what makes Lincrusta so appealing in that it lasts for ever with only the painting of the surface needed to maintain it.

Lincrusta Dado Bramhall

Lincrusta Dado panel cheshire


With the two of us working together we soon had the project completed.  Leaving the client with another addition to the period features that are slowly returning to this lovely victorian house.

I hope you find the blog post of interest and if you are in the cheshire area and have a decorating project in the pipeline then please get in contact, I would be more than happy to advise you in what is involved to achieve the end result.


How I hang non woven lining paper

I had a decorating job to do in Wilmslow – hang non woven lining paper and paint it.

Non woven lining paper can be hung in two different ways. It can be pasted on the back of the paper, the traditional way, or the walls can be pasted and the paper can then be applied direct.

Paste-the-wall is the simplest way I have come up with to hang lining paper for painting – no need for a paste table. Here’s my approach to this style of papering.


First, cut in a band of ready mixed paste round the edges with a brush and roll the main wall the equivalent of two or three drops of paper at a time. You can get different widths of paper from 55cm wide, 75cm and 100cm wide.  My preference is for 75cm.

I put a full roll at the bottom of the wall against the skirting board. I then take the end of the paper and pull the paper up off the roll.

The weight of the roll at the bottom keeps me on target.


I then smooth out the top section with a spatula (Zinsser WallWizz) and then work down, pushing any air from the middle of the paper out to the edges. When I am half way down the wall, I then use a spatula and knife to cut the top against the ceiling. (I use the excellent black Olfa blades for trimming.)


I then come down off my step ladders and proceed to smooth out down to the bottom with my spatula. I then press in the paper tight to the skirting with my spatula and finally cut the paper from the roll with my knife.

So at no point do I handle the main roll, except when the paper is tight against the skirting board at the end of the hanging process.

Repeat this process until the last drop.

Splice last drop into a corner

This is where I do a little cheat.

Instead of measuring the space between the new lining paper and the end of the wall, marking and trimming to size on a paste table, I just place a full width into the corner. As shown below, it overlaps onto the penultimate piece.


I will then splice the two papers that are overlapped with a fresh sharp blade and a straight edge. The splice is done nice and tight, so as to minimise paper waste.


The reason for doing this is because I just find it a little time-saver over measuring and cutting into an internal corner. The splices are invisible with an Olfa Black blade.

External corners

Another thing I do for external corners with non-woven lining is use a wet sponge on the corners. It transforms the paper into a lovely nimble paper that pulls around an external corner with ease.


I hope you find these tips on how I hang non woven lining paper of use, if you are lining yourself. If you have any questions, or need help on a project, then please get in touch, I’m more than happy to help.


Decorating a Hall in Mottram St Andrew

I Just thought i would take you through a  decorating Job i recently undertook for some new clients of mine.

The property was only built two years ago and was all painted out in white leaving a blank canvas.

What makes this different to most Jobs i take on is that this Hall Stairs Landing in Mottram St Andrew  was going to take 43 rolls wallpaper to complete.







The spec from the client was to paint all  Ceilings, Coving, Doors and Trim. Line out walls and then finish with a quality  wall covering.


Before all that though there was a fair bit of prep to do.  All the coving was timber and had shrunk slightly over the past couple of years. This was filled back and the odd knot bleed was treated.( This is that little yellow stain you can get on your casings, doors, architraves)






The casings and architrave had the same problems and so the same spec as the coving was applied.

The walls and ceilings had a number of cracks that were racked out and filled out with gyproc easy fill left to dry and then sanded back smooth.


All the walls were then sized with Zinsser gardz to aid and promote the installation of the lining paper.

A ready mixed paste was chosen (In this case beeline yellow top) for the lining paper because the final wall covering requires a ready mixed paste.

This Hallway had its challenges though as it has four Levels, three stairwells. Plus the entrance Hall was  a little tall 6 meters tall!!IMG_3885


The walls are cross lined so that they do not conflict with the finished wall covering as that is dropped  vertically.

The ceilings were then painted out with two coats of white Matt emulsion. This i did before painting any of the trim or doors as the overspray from brush or roller may fall onto them thus needing to be cleaned or rubbed off.


The woodwork (Doors and trim) comes next.  The client requested an eggshell finish  so i chose to use the  Mylands of London Eggshell.  A really tough water based paint perfect for busy traffic areas like hall stairs and landing.

The doors need some prep first before we can paint them.  In this case as well as sanding the trim i used a product from the Krud Kutter stable called “gloss off” it promotes adhesion a belt and braces system that i like to use.



The doors were originally painted in oil based satinwood back in 2010.  The year of the yellowing oil based paint and the very year i stopped using oil for that very reason.

From the photograph you can see the difference a good example of what I’m talking about.

Also note that the door on the right and the architrave was only the first coat, it got a second coat on top of that, but it does show the incredible hiding power that Mylands paint has in its locker.IMG_3912


Mylands eggshell levels and flows brilliantly  as well.


Once the doors and trim was finished its then we can start with the finish wall coverings







i had to erect scaffolding to paint round the lights and aided in the papering  of the wall with the window and door.

The walls going up the stairs were to be finished in a glass beaded non woven paper with a big leaf  repeat.  The tool i used to spread out the paper from air bubbles was my 7” felt roller perfect for beaded paper as it reduces the loss of beads attached to the paper which can sometimes have a nasty  habit of getting under the wall covering.

The stair walls needed setting out correctly with the pattern match as the entrance was 6 mts high and the pattern was flowing up both stairwells.



I was pleased how the project finished







If you have any questions about an upcoming kitchen or furniture painting project, please contact Scot. If you would like to subscribe to my blog I will send you updates of my latest jobs via email.
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